NEGA KOŽE

Koliko god da se piše i priča na temu Nega kože uvek se provuku neka dodatna pitanja za koja se misli da su jednostavna i da to svi znaju, dok je realnost drugačija. Dešava se često da žene koje se površno zanimaju za negu kože imaju nedoumice koji su to zapravo pravilni koraci nege kože kao i koji su proizvodi neophodni kako bismo bili sigurni da se adekvatno negujemo. Nije suvišno ponoviti da se sa tipom kože rađamo, a stanje kože tretiramo tokom života i spram stanja kože biramo preparate. Pa da krenemo…

Tri osnovna koraka nege kože su: čišćenje, toniranje i hidratacija kože. Idealno je ove korake sprovoditi kako ujutru tako i uveče.

ČIŠĆENJE KOŽE

Prvo treba reći da razlikujemo nekoliko stanja kože i to: normalna, dehidrirana, suva, mešovita i masna.Čišćenje kože podrazumeva pranje lica čistačem izabranim spram stanja kože. To treba da je gel ili pena za umivanje. Čvrste sapune treba izbegavati za čišćenje kože jer remete PH kože. Njihovo korišćenje se savetuje samo u slučaju da je to preporuka od strane dermatologa kao deo lečenja kože.Sve žene koje se šminkaju, večernje čišćenje treba da započnu skidačem šminke. To može biti mleko za skidnje šminke, balsam za čišćenje lica, micelarna voda i slični preparati.

TONIRANJE KOŽE

Toniranje podrazumeva dodatno hidriranje kože tonicima ili termalnim vodama. Ovaj korak većina žena izbegava, ali je on zapravo jako bitan jer je upravo nedostatak vode glavni uzrok propadanja tonusa i jedrine kože. Dosta žena za ovaj korak koristi micelarnu vodu, što je u redu ukoliko ste primetili da to vašoj koži prija.

Tonici koji se koriste za ovaj korak nege kože treba da su bez alkohola kako bi mogli da hidriraju i predeo oko očiju. Ukoliko ipak tonik koristite za regulaciju sebuma, a koji sadrži u sebi alkohol, izbegavajte područje oko očiju. Pored peckanja ovakva vrsta preparata može ektremno da isuši područje oko očiju.

Dakle, nakon prvog koraka i čišćenja lica, nanesemo tonik tuferom ili naprskamo, u zavisnosti od pakovanja. Umesto tonika odličan izbor mogu da budu termalne vode koje je preporučljivo da prskate više puta u toku dana, čak i preko šminke jer je hidratacija uvek više nego dobrodošla kada govorimo o odlaganju starenja kože.

HIDRATACIJA

Treći korak je hidratacija ili nanošenje kremice za područje oko očiju i kreme na lice, vrat i dekolte.Ukoliko nemate prevelike potrebe i ne osećate zatezanje kože uveče nakon čišćenja lica, naprskajte tonik ili termalnu vodu i neka to bude noćna nega.

Prilikom izbora teksture kreme za lice tu je zapravo glavno pitanje kakvo je vaše trenutno stanje kože, a ne tip kože imate. Brojni su faktori koji utiču na stanje kože. Samo neki od njih su: godišnje doba, menstrualni ciklus, pubertet, menopauza i slično. U zavisnosti od toga ponekad je potrebno promeniti kreme po teksturi. Dosta žena će na prvu reći da ima suvu kožu, ali se u većini slučajeva radi o dehidriranoj koži kojoj je potrebna vlaga, a ne masnoće.

Zašto je ovo vrlo važno?

Ukoliko imamo kombinovanu kožu, a dehidriranu, i mi uporno uzimamo masnije kreme umesto onih sa visokim procentom vlažnosti, možemo dodatno da napravimo problem. Dolazi do zapušavanja pora i pojačava se masnoća kože. To je jedan od primera gde žene često greše.Druga česta greška je ne korišćenje krema za lice pod izgovorom da imaju masnu kožu. Istina je da upravo toj masnoj koži je neophodna hidratacija. Pravi izbor u tim slučajevima je fluidna tekstura kreme za hidrataciju jer neće zapušiti pore i opteretiti kožu, a mnogo će značiti za negu i koža će vam biti zahvalna.

U zavisnosti od stanja kože ćemo birati i tonike i micelarne vode jer cilj jeste da adekvatnom negom dovedemo kožu u idealno stanje dnevnom rutinom.

Ono što se preporučuje ukoliko želite dodatnu negu za sebe, a bez odlaska kod kozmetičara, jeste da u svoju rutinu uključite i korišćenje seruma i eliksira za lice. Oni se na kožu nanose nakon čišćenja, a pre primene kreme za lice.

Kada pričamo o intervencijama kod dermatologa, kao što su fileri, botoks i slično, imajte na umu da sve to mnogo duže traje i deluje mnogo prirodnije ako se radi na negovanoj koži.

Autor: Milica Jevtić, Beauty trener, gostujući saradnik na Farmaceutskom fakultetu u Novom Sadu na predmetima Kozmetologija i Dermokozmetički preparati, savetnik za lepotu za vodeće kozmetičke kompanije: Yves Saint Laurent, Vichy, Sephora, Guerlain, RVB, La Roche Posay, Darphin, Diego Dalla Palma, Avon…

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SKIN CARE

No matter how much we write and talk about Skin care, there are always some additional questions that are thought to be simple and that everyone knows, while the reality is different. It is often the case that women who are superficially interested in skin care have concerns about what are the proper steps of skin care as well as what products are necessary to ensure that we are adequately nourished. It is not superfluous to repeat that we are born with a skin type and we treat the skin condition throughout our lives and choose the products according to the skin condition. So, let’s get going …

The three basic steps of skin care are: cleansing, toning and hydrating the skin. It is ideal to carry out these steps in the morning and in the evening.

 SKIN CLEANING

First, we have to distinguish several skin conditions: normal, dehydrated, dry, mixed and oily.Cleansing your skin involves washing your face with a cleanser selected according to your skin condition. It should be a gel or a wash foam. Solid soaps should be avoided for cleansing the skin as it disrupts PH of the skin. They should be used only if it is recommended by a dermatologist as part of skin treatment.

All women who put makeup, evening cleaning should begin with a makeup remover. These can be milk for makeup removal, facial cleansing balm, micellar water and similar products.

SKIN TONING

Toning involves additionally hydrating the skin with tonics or thermal waters. This step is avoided by most women, but it is really important because it is the lack of water that is the main cause of the declination of the tone and vigor of the skin. Quite a few women use micellar water for this step, which is fine if you notice that this is what your skin appreciates.The tonics used for this skin care step should be alcohol free so they can be used to moisturize the eye area as well. However, if you use a tonic to regulate sebum that contains alcohol, avoid eye area. In addition to burning, this type of preparation can dry the eye area extremely.

So, after the first step and facial cleansing, apply a toner with a buffer or spray, depending on the packaging. Instead of tonics, thermal waters can be also good choice and it is recommendable to spray them multiple times throughout the day, even over makeup, as hydration is always more than welcome when it comes to delaying skin aging.

HYDRATION

The third step is to moisturize or apply eye cream and cream on face, neck and décolletage.If you do not have too much need and do not feel a tightening of the skin in the evening after cleansing, spray tonic or thermal water and make it a night care.When choosing the texture of face cream, the real question is what your current skin condition is, not the skin type you have. There are numerous factors that affect the condition of the skin. Only some of them are: weather seasons, menstrual cycle, puberty, menopause and others. Depending on this, it is sometimes necessary to change the creams by texture. Quite a few women will say at first that they have dry skin, but in most cases, it is dehydrated skin that needs moisture, and not grease.

Why is this very important?

If we have combination skin combined with dehydration, and we persistently take oily creams instead of those with a high moisture content, we can further create a bigger problem. It causes clogging of the pores and increases the grease of the skin. It’s one example where women often make mistakes.Another common mistake is not to use face creams on the pretext of having oily skin. The truth is that oily skin needs hydration. The right choice in these cases is the fluid texture of the moisturizer as it will not clog pores and burden the skin, and it will mean a lot to care and your skin will be grateful.Depending on the condition of the skin, we will choose tonics and micellar water as the goal is to bring the skin to the ideal condition with daily care by using and applying adequate care.

What is recommended if you want extra care for yourself without going to a beautician or cosmetic saloon is to include the use of serum and face elixirs in your routine. They are applied to the skin after cleansing and before applying face cream.

When it comes to interventions with dermatologists, such as fillers, Botox, and similar, keep in mind that it all lasts a lot longer and works much more naturally if it is done on well cared skin.

Author: Milica Jevtić, Beauty Trainer, Visiting Associate at the Faculty of Pharmacy in Novi Sad, Cosmetology and Dermo cosmetics, Beauty Advisor for leading cosmetics companies: Yves Saint Laurent, Vichy, Sephora, Guerlain, RVB, La Roche Posay, Darphin, Diego Dalla Palma, Avon…